Hiking Arenal Volcano
Monday, April 23rd, 2012Sometimes, one is compelled to tempt fate. On a recent trip, Sarah and I traveled to the Pacific Ring of Fire – on the Guanacaste Range of Costa Rica – to Arenal Volcano National Park so we could hike one of the most active volcanoes on Earth!
Arenal is the centerpiece of the 30,000 acre Arenal Volcano National Park. At nearly 5,350 feet and growing, it is a perfect stratovolcano that rises over 2,000 feet above the surrounding tropical rainforest. Nestled at its base is Lake Arenal, a 33 square mile reservoir that serves as the catchment for water flowing down the mountain and out through the rainforest. The volcano, reservoir, and tropical rainforest are an exotic mix of ecosystems and landscapes. Experts estimate half of Costa Rica’s land-dwelling vertebrate species, such as birds, reptiles, amphibians and mammals live there.
Mount Arenal erupted in 1968. It was an unexpected and abrupt end to nearly 500 years of dormancy. Before 1968, adventure seekers would regularly scale the top of the then dormant mountain and some would even camp in the crater! It’s had a number of smaller eruptions since, so camping and hiking have been limited to specific areas. Despite the danger, hikes and nature walks are very popular in the park, and are the best way to enjoy bird and wildlife watching as well as volcanic activity. The park closes at dark but lava and pyroclastic debris can still be seen flowing and shooting out from the top from the surrounding area on most nights.
It was the loud booming and rumbling of an eruption that woke us up just before dawn the morning of the hike. I could see and hear glowing orange-red boulders being ejected from the crater and then rolling and crashing down the side of the mountain. Neither of us had ever hiked or even been to a place like this. It was then that we knew this was really going to be an adventure.
February is the region’s dry season so the temperature was mild and there weren’t many bugs biting when we arrived at the park entrance. There was a cabin where we paid the park ranger a small entrance fee and got a brochure with a map. The ranger instructed us to wet our clothes and wrap them around our nose and mouth in the event of an eruption. It was unsettling, to say the least, but the fact that this volcano could erupt at any time made me feel alive!
There were deep rumblings under foot as we started on the trail behind the ranger station. The mile-long Heliconias Trail was our first experience in a jungle. We were led into a lush green corridor as we walked away from the station and toward the mountain and La Miradora. The vegetation was about twenty feet tall and dense with ferns and heliconias. Brightly colored spiky-leafed bromeliads were attached to what seemed like every tree branch. Butterflies and hummingbirds were busy dining on the many flowers. All kinds of sounds were coming from within the thick wall of leaves and vines the trail was leading us through. One sound really stood out: it was Montezuma Oropendola. Those birds made a crackling noise followed by what sounded like a cassette tape playing while fast forwarding.
The new surroundings had our senses heightened as we moved forward another mile or so on the trail to La Miradora (the main lookout). Once there, we sat on a bench under a shelter where there was a close-up panoramic view. This was a good spot to listen and watch the manifestations from the volcano. Four large birds that looked like a cross between turkey and peafowl were grazing the area. After a snack, we hiked back down toward the rainforest on the flat, grassy two-mile Las Coladas Trail. It wasn’t far and we reached the first intersection with the Ceibo Trail loop. We hiked this trail for an hour and a half into the rainforest where it featured a 100-year-old ceibo tree. That tree was the largest of a group of trees that happened to survive the eruptions. Standing next to the old giant was humbling. It was draped by large woody vines, so I grabbed hold of one and climbed it a little. There was no way I was going to make it up to the canopy. Sarah grabbed a vine and was swinging back and forth like Tarzan! Monkeying around was a lot of fun but we had more to see, so we trekked on. The dimly lit trail got brighter as the tall tree’s canopy opened up and we merged again with Las Coladas Trail.
We weren’t on Las Coladas Trail long when it made an abrupt end at what looked like a large pile of rocks. This was the edge of the 1992 lava flow. A sign and a staircase carved into the rocks marked the beginning of the 1992 Lava Flow trail. The rock stairs brought us out above the trees and on top of the old lava flow where pioneer vegetation was springing out from the barren landscape of jagged black rocks. From under the rainforest canopy, we could hear animals but saw very few. Once we were above the canopy we saw many more. Toucans were flying from one treetop to another. Monkeys were in the treetops too. We met fellow hikers here who were enjoying the scenery. The volcano, lake, and rainforest were all visible from the top of the old flow. We had some laughs while we climbed over the rocks, shared stories, and watched house sized boulders ejected from the crater crash down the mountainside and break apart. We were captivated by the clouds impacting the summit. Wind was pushing them around the peak making an eddy current on the downwind side of the mountain top.
It was after noon and we knew we had a long hike back to the cabin so we said our goodbyes and started back toward the park entrance. Leaving the park, we picked up our pace on the bumpy gravel road following the shore of Lake Arenal. We stopped to check out the wild impatiens covering the hillsides and streams flowing across the road. The scenery was truly amazing as we finished the five miles back to our cabin just in time for nightfall.















I’ve realized over the past few years that the books I tend to enjoy reading the most are those that chronicle some kind of travel or adventure. My interest isn’t limited to true stories either, I’m just as interested in fantastic adventures as well.
